Five experiences that justify a trip to Albania
Albania's best experiences cluster into a short list: a dramatic lake ferry, a mountain crossing on foot, a hilltop old town, ancient ruins by the sea, and a pass that takes you from peaks to coastline in one drive. Here's what's actually worth your time.
Is the Koman ferry worth the 2.5-hour ride?
Yes — it's less a ferry than a journey through a flooded gorge on the Drin, linking Shkodër to Valbona where no road exists. Budget a full day around the crossing itself. It costs 9 euro booked online or 10 euro/1,000 lek in cash (everything on board is cash-only), and runs daily from 15 April to 5 November. Between June and September, booking ahead is effectively mandatory — this route fills up. Outside that window it doesn't run at all, and even in season it depends on weather and water levels, so build in flexibility.
Should you hike from Theth to Valbona?
If you've got 6 to 9 hours and reasonable fitness, yes. The trail through the Albanian Alps is waymarked and needs no guide or permit — just daylight and decent legs. Pair it with the Koman ferry for a proper Alps-to-fjord loop, since Valbona is the ferry's endpoint.
Which old towns are worth the detour?
Berat's old town and castle are a highlight: 300 lek entry (200 lek per person for groups of 12+), roughly 4 hours, and walkable once you're there. Krujë's castle and bazaar are free to enter, though the museums add 500 and 600–700 lek (budget around 1,200 lek total for everything); plan half a day to a full day. It's reachable by furgon for 150–200 lek, so it's an easy add-on rather than a major detour.
Is Butrint worth the trip south?
For ruins fans, yes. This ancient site costs 1,000 lek (800 lek per person in groups of 10+) and takes 2 to 3 hours. A municipal bus gets you there for 200 lek, which keeps it cheap even as a standalone day trip.
What about the drive over Llogara Pass?
It's the single best way to feel Albania's geography shift: a roughly 3-hour drive from mountains down to the Ionian Sea, with views across to Corfu. A 6 km tunnel opened in 2024 bypasses the old hairpin bends for a toll, but the original pass road is still open if you want the views over speed. Given that Albania's road death rate is among the highest in Europe — potholes, unlit stretches, livestock, and aggressive overtaking are real hazards — stick to daylight driving and take it slow regardless of which route you choose.
FAQ
Do I need a visa to do any of this? Most Schengen-exempt nationalities can enter Albania visa-free for up to 90 days in any 180-day period; US citizens can stay up to a year without a residence permit.
Can I just turn up to the Koman ferry? Outside peak summer you might get lucky, but June–September booking ahead is effectively mandatory, and the whole season only runs mid-April to early November.
What if I get sick outside Tirana? Healthcare outside the capital is basic and the EHIC doesn't apply, so travel insurance with medical evacuation cover is worth having before you head into the mountains or south.
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